Cheryl Kolander, Silkworker

 

by Leslie Shelor

 

Originally published May 11, 2006 on a fiber blog.

 

Cheryl Kolander, all images from Aurora Silk web site When I first became interested in working with fine fibers, A Silk Worker's Notebook soon found its way to my bookshelves as a valued resource. The author, Cheryl Kolander, is an experienced fiber artist and master dyer who has been dyeing and working with silk for over thirty years. Her extensive experience and skills in communication led to the book, written in 1979 and reprinted in 1985 by Interweave Press as a paperback. The 3rd edition, available now in a hardbound collector's edition, has been expanded and is a reproduction of the original, with seven tipped-in fabric swatches and over 30 photo plates.

 

Silkworms, image from Aurora Silk

Aurora Silk, Cheryl's fiber and dye business based in Portland, Oregon, showcases her unique talents in using natural dyes and luxury silk fiber. There is extensive information on the site about dyeing techniques. Using natural materials and non-toxic mordants, everyone from beginning dyers to experts can find information about how to dye silk and other fibers safely and creatively. Cheryl also conducts dyeing workshops that cover many aspects of dyeing and working with fine fiber. An apprenticeship program with the goal of forming a Portland natural dye cooperative is planned for the summer of 2006.

 

Cheryl's need for logwood dye for her business led to her participation in The Logwood Project, which benefits the indigenous population of the Dominican Republic with economic development. The community now supplies both logwood and fustic wood dyes, and there has been expansion into producing other dye materials. The community also raises Peace Silk, an alternative method of producing silk fiber that allows the moth to emerge from the cocoon to live out the natural life cycle. Natural medicines and therapeutic wrist and foot warmers are also produced by the community. In conjunction with Mama D. O. C., a Portland based non-profit promoting natural health and natural dyes, the Logwood Project has helped provide a bridge, safe drinking water, a library, clinic and other benefits for the Quesqueya people.

 

Aurora Silk offers a full selection of naturally dyed yarn, thread, fiber and fabric, along with instructional books and articles. Natural dyes and mordants are offered in beginner's and advanced dye kits as well as individually in small or large quantities. The fiber artist interested in experiencing the complete process of producing silk can obtain silk worm eggs and mulberry trees to feed the emerging silk worms. Cocoons and Peace Silk are available for processing and dyeing. Although it is obvious that Cheryl's first love is silk, hemp and cotton products are available as well. Natural health products are listed on the web page, some of them featuring silk.

 

Cheryl's belief in the healing power of color that is created naturally is revealed in her deep interest in the processes of natural dyeing. Her dedication to the use of safe mordants and dye products, along with her promotion of Peace Silk and the Logwood Project, reveal her concern for the environment. Working in a artistic tradition from centuries past and preserving a heritage from the beginning of civilization, Cheryl Kolander is an artist worthy of the name. She has worked with many artists, supplying dyed silk and other fibers for their artwork to Robert Forman , Jan Wheatcroft and many others. Her silk has been used to restore antique oriental carpets, to make beautiful prayer shawls and woven into traditionally patterned carpets by Moroccan villagers.