How to Dye with Acid Dyes
Vat Dyeing
Article by
Leslie Shelor
Raw wool after
washing; ready to dye
My dyeing techniques are based on the instructions in the book,
Hands On Dyeing
by Betsy Blumenthal and Kathryn Kreider, with some modifications I've found
that just work for me. A large part of working with dye successfully is
willingness to experiment. I've never had a complete failure in dyeing
although I've often had unexpected results! This is just what I do and what
works for me. Please consider that my method is not nearly as scientific
and predictable as it could be.
There are lots of pictures of my dyeing adventures on my
flickr page and
more descriptions on my blog.
Just search for dyeing
There are several ways to apply dye, but vat dyeing is the
easiest. First I mordant (a mordant fixes the dye into the fiber) my fibers
overnight in a solution of water and vinegar. The vinegar provides the acid
that fixes acid dyes. The amount of water and vinegar depends on the amount
of fiber I intend to dye. For a pound of fiber a little less than two cups of
vinegar is generally recommended; sometimes I use less, though. For delicate
fibers such as fine wools, alpaca and angora I find that a lighter hand with
the mordant is necessary. You don't want to make your fibers harsh and too
much mordant can damage fine fiber. So say a cup and a quarter for working
with angora and like fiber. I use lots of water so the fiber is well soaked
and gets wet through.
The next day I get out my dye pots and the fun begins. I use a
big fruit canner and I'm not scientific about how much water I put in,
although generally filling it up three-quarters of the way is what I use for a
pound of fiber. If you feel like you need to you can add another dollop of
vinegar in the pot and sometimes I add three or four tablespoons of salt as a
leveling agent. A leveling agent helps the fiber take the dye more evenly, if
that's the effect you want.
Different dyes achieve different
results
Then I make up what is called a stock solution of dye. This is
simply putting about 1/2 teaspoon of dye for each half cup of water and mixing
it well. Be sure it is mixed well; some colors seem to take some time and
effort to dissolve. It's here I should put in all the standard warnings about
being careful with dye. It is a chemical and any chemical can be dangerous.
Be sure not to breathe in the dye powder and use gloves to keep the dye off
your skin. So-called natural dyes and mordants can be even more dangerous
when used incorrectly so do be cautious. Also, it's best to use utensils and
pots that are dedicated to working with dye and not used afterward for food
preparation. I bought all my pots and crocks from various flea markets and
auctions really, really cheap!
So now you've got a dye solution to use. It depends on how
much dye you use as to how dark the resulting color will be. This is where
the experimenting comes in. To get a really dark color in a pound of fiber,
for example, you'd need two cups of stock solution added to your dye pot.
More dye, richer color; less dye, lighter color. Add the amount of stock
solution you've decided on to your pot and stir it well.
Hand dyed fiber and yarn at
Greenberry House
Take your fiber out of the mordant solution where it has been
sitting all this time and squeeze it a bit to remove excess water. You want
it wet but not dripping. Place the fiber into the pot. I find it better to
get it all in at once; sometimes the dye will "strike" immediately and you'll
get a more even color if all the fiber gets hit at the same time. Make sure
the fiber bundle is in there a bit loosely so the color can get in all of it,
if the result you want is even color. Put your dye pot on the stove and turn
on the heat. How high will depend on your burner; you want to gradually bring
the solution to a simmer. Stir occasionally but not vigorously; you just want
to swirl the color thorough the fiber. I generally let the fiber stay in
until all the color is gone from the water. The amount of time this takes
will depend on the amount of dye and type of fiber but usually you can count
on it taking at least an hour. Gradual exposure to the heat is the key; you
don't want to felt your fiber. So don't agitate it and don't get it too hot
too quickly.
After the color is all gone, take the pot off the stove and set
it aside to cool. I often let mine sit overnight again. The I pour all the
water off the fiber and rinse it in lukewarm water to remove any excess dye.
If it seems like a lot is coming off, I'll use a mild dish washing detergent
to wash the fiber to make sure the color doesn't run. Be careful with this
washing process; this is another time when delicate fibers can be felted
accidently. Use the same temperature water for each rinse as the one before.
So now you should have beautifully dyed fiber. Send me
pictures!
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